(4) Tokyo.., Land of the Sun (Nippon)

  Yes, the land where the sun rises!    Nippon(!), as they call it.    

  Finally I was in Japan after so many years of waiting, ...procrastinating(!).     

   Its funny how Japan casts that 'love-hate' (or 'neither this nor that') values to many Asians.    To them, Japan is never a friend nor enemy; Japan is not respected nor repudiated; Japan is loved, and at the same time hated for so many other reasons.    

   Regardless of historical facts, common sentiments and any personal conflicts thereof (yours truly, a Korea born), my trip to Tokyo was to (finally!) explore the land (its people) so close and yet so far away...      Indeed!   Feeling was.., I waited for too long; this was a way overdue visit(!).     

   Tokyo is -arguably, the neatest, cleanest and most 'traveler friendly' metropolis I've visited.    Safe environment, courteous and well mannered people, and above all good food everywhere.      

   Asia, just like the other old continent (Europe), showcases the 'New & Old', ...and of course combination of them.  Such harmony is what attracts people from all over the world; excites travelers like me(!).

  Actually -in terms of the 'Old' however, what Tokyo has to offer (despite its lengthy history and achievements) is a lot less than say that of Beijing or even Seoul.   Not much of ancient monuments, architectural wonders or jaw dropping scenery/ruins; no 'Wow' factors there!.     But it doesn't take long before one learns the art of the 'New', the cleanness, technology and ...simplicity that bind to whatever 'Old' it got...   That harmony is the very idiosyncratic beauty and symbol of this land.     Also the 'Serenity', perhaps the strongest impression of Tokyo (to me) never betrayed me throughout my visit.

   The above is the castle of Tokugawa Yoshinobu, the last shogun of Japan.    Observe the simplicity of the wooden structures with clean roof lines and gardens.   Again, not much of details, colors, adornments but serene!       Symbol of Japanese simplicity and cleanness.   Beautiful!

   Akasaka, a market place and shopping district, was my first destination.   Hundreds of stores with souvenirs, hand crafted artifacts and fast foods...   And people.., lots of them(!)  

   Wherever you go, whatever you do, people from Tokyo will greet you with kindness, courtesy and grace.     Actually, they are oh so thankful for everything one says or does.  One hears (the now universal language) "Arigato gozaimashita (ありがとうございました)" in the average of 20-30 times per day.    They 'Arigato' you for every little thing you do; even for everything they do for you.    Ah!, and that's not solely because you are a visitor; they arogato themselves just as much.    Ha ha, not at all cynicism or sarcasm; my remarks here are purely out of surprise (of their protocol) as well as respect (!).      

   Clean and well organized city.    Everywhere(!), even in busy, crowded market place ie.   Looking at above picture one would appreciate the cleanness on the ground.  ...no trash; not even a small piece of paper on the street.    

  Now, guess if you can.     Do you detect any other uniqueness (definite anomaly for us!) in the picture (above)?     Yes!  you guessed it.   Even in such busy and crowded spaces, people use two-way directional walking pattern, not to run into on coming traffic.   Right side going North; Left side coming south bound.     No one teaches or controls it.    Admirable(!).   The order and discipline seem to be natural part of these people, their subconsciousness.     

   Akasaka shopping district ends (surprisingly) where many temples (Buddhist and Shinto) are gathered.   I should emphasize my affinity toward the Japanese wooden structures with clean and graceful roof lines!

   Japanese Buddhism stems from the school of Mahayana (Chan) Buddhism of China.   Japanese Zen doctrine (like the original Chan of China) strongly emphasizes 'Dhyana', the concentration-meditation.    Zen strives in finding internal awareness and peace (..and heaven), rather than 'external' searching as we are accustomed within Judaeo-Christian belief.   Japanese Buddhists believe that Dhyana gives insight of one's true nature (the emptiness of inherent existence), which ultimately would lead them to the true stage of awareness, Dharma -a liberated way of living.

   I am uncertain whether this ritual of cleansing your soul -via the smoke created in this holy pot, is a Buddhist or Shinto tradition.     But all visitors are encouraged to go thru this unique experience.     Amazingly the smoke and smell do not stay with one for long; it was fun!

   Unlike Seoul(Korea) where one would find one Christian church in every few city blocks, Tokyo -very much like Beijing, has no Western churches in sight.   Amazing how driving for hours in the city, and not finding a crucifix around.

   It is said that 90 percent of Japanese are Buddhists; and at the same time, over 80 percent of them are Shinto (Japanese traditional religion) worshipers.   Another word, most if not all Japaneses practice and worship dual religions.

   Interesting to note their expression of "We are world's only 'one day' Christians!".   Japanese celebrate Christmas with all its festivities and customs such as partying and cards/gifts exchanging (like us, Christians).., but again, only for one day; just Christmas Day!

   Above is the largest Shinto temple in Tokyo.   It is known as the spiritual sanctuary for people of Tokyo.    It is said that this temple is so very revered and loved by worshipers from all over Japan, that it is always crowded by visitors (local and travelers) 24-7(!), throughout the year. 

   This Shinto ritual of 'soul cleansing' ceremony (via holy water) is a must before we enter the sacred temple.     The ritual has interesting steps and protocols; few minutes of instruction is absolute necessity therefore.  

   Japan, ...Japanese.    For centuries they have been known as the cultivators of the world famous 'artisan' and 'craftsman' culture.    Only in Japan, one finds sushi making skill derived for ten generations; a noodle house boasting hundred years of family recipes...  

   This person (temple ground sweeper) is no exception to such Japanese artisan culture.  Using -perhaps the longest broom stick I've ever encountered in my travels, circles are drawn as he sweeps the ground.    His choreographed motions and calm looks -even at visitors' attention and applause, demonstrate the serene skill (for sure) polished and derived for generations.     

  The very famous sake drum collections at the entrance of the temple. 

  Yes.  Like many other cultures of the world, Japanese Shinto seems to make that very connection of alcoholic beverages and the cleansing of soul.    Being a sake lover (yours truly ie), I was oh so happy and overwhelmed (just by appreciating the size of the collection!); but had to accept the appropriate protocol and just show gentle respect, and pass along...

   Japan was the first nation in far east to open its doors to foreigners and western civilizations.   It has been well documented that Japanese wore western apparels and read western books before any other nation in Asia.    Nevertheless, during all those centuries Japanese wedding ceremony has never been deviated from the traditional Shinto style.      Quite intriguing to learn that unlike Korean counterpart, western/Christian style wedding is almost non-existent in Japan.    (Picture above shows the groom and his entourage entering the Shinto wedding ceremony)

  I was extremely lucky to witness this wedding during my visit to the temple.    My impressions (?)   ...again -not surprisingly, 'serenity and simplicity'.      Unlike Christian celebration, this wedding was very.., (almost too) quiet and simple.    No loud talks, announcements and/or music.    Just small, simple yet formal and beautiful!!

   Here (above) we see the bride expecting the guests.   

   A point of interest worth conveying here...   Its the story behind the cone-shaped hat the bride is wearing.    Based on old Japanese tradition, women have invisible horns in their heads (symbol of human aggressiveness!?).   Handy, of course, when life (especially husbands!) prompts them to use force and aggression.    The point here is that the wearing of such hat by bride (during wedding ceremony) is a representation/promise (to the groom) to forever hide the horn; to forever leave the husband in peace!!   (Wow!, Friends,  ...my hat off to that!!)

   Yes.  The peace, serenity... wherever you go in Tokyo.   This omnipresence of quietness, hardly found in any other big metropolis, certainly is contrasting representation of Tokyo to any other Asian cities.

  Again, people from Tokyo are kind, courteous and fun...    One amazing fact to note is how shallow their English skill is compared to people of Seoul, or even Beijing, China.   Communication is achieved with their patience, wit and good gestures however.  

   I ran into this ninja somewhere in Tokyo Bay.   He, of course, is headed for Hollywood and promised me for a future contact (upon his success there, that is...)

   Japanese kimonos and other traditional habits are so fun and pleasant to look at.   For the lack of better expression, they give you 'clown-like' intimacy and friendliness..

   The rickshaw, still a popular mean of transportation (at least among foreign visitors)

    so, the New... 

   ...and the Old excursion boats in Tokyo Bay.    The contrast and harmony of the two.., just like the city of Tokyo itself.

The city view from top of Tokyo Tower.

   360 degree birds eye view of Tokyo can be achieved at the observation deck above.

   Hotel recommendations:  Tokyo Palace Hotel, "Tokyo Parasu Hoteru" as pronounced by locals here (above), is a 5-6 star accommodation.      One of the best the city boasts in terms of service, luxury and location.      Naturally, the three day lodging was more costly than expected.     Never regretted however, because the comfort and accommodations surpassed all expectations by far.    To quote the hotel concierge, "staying at this hotel itself is best part of Tokyo visit".     

   Hotels are our home, our nest while traveling; good rest, clean bathrooms and fine foods are what make a good trip more memorable!      Yes.  A big part of any trip, is hotel and accommodation.      Tokyo Palace is located at the heart of Tokyo business district, right across the street from the Palace (of shogun Dokugawa Yoshinobu).     Safe and short traveling distance to any important part of Tokyo.     

   My recommendation to this hotel is extremely high(!), even if the cost may require additional few months of your savings! 

   Tokyo by night from the balcony of 'Tokyo Parasu Hoteru'.

   And this is the famous Ginza shopping district.   'Sticker Shock' time, right?!    Once upon a time -and until advent of other shopping metropolis like Hong Kong, Shanghai and Seoul as competitors, Ginza was the only destination for all Asian high-end luxury hunters.     Even now, the best of world collections, fancy and exclusive name brands are gathered here.      As expected, overall high price tags.., but very comparable to high end shopping in the states.

   For obvious reason, they say Ginza is the main cause of Tokyo husbands' hypertension syndrome...  

   ...and my guess is that this 'unorthodox' middle-aged super hero (of Tokyo) is none other than one of the husbands just diagnosed with such hypertension.    Apparent demonstration against wives coming within few miles radius of Ginza (??) 

   My conclusion..,

   The Good:  Tokyo is a beautiful, immaculately clean city.        Tokyo is serene and peaceful.    Very safe for all travelers; kind and courteous people; and (somewhat expensive but) tasteful food and delicacies.        Taxi service is widely available, safe and clean.   I mean by that hygienically (and literally) clean.  Just as examples, seats are clean (some of them even covered with clean sheets); the doors open and close automatically, so the passengers don't have to touch anything -including the door handles.      Lastly, no gratuity pay; no tips anywhere under any circumstances.    Even if this means consumers being charged more to compensate the 'gratuity portion', not struggling with 'tip conundrum' in a foreign land is a welcome pleasure for any traveler.

   The Less Good:   The price tag for staying in Tokyo, just like the cost of living here, is a bit high.   Hotel rates are comparable to say, our New York City, if not higher.    Decent lunch for two would equal $40-$50; and nice dinner for two would easily be $150 to $200 (or more if you choose a bottle of good Jumai Dai Ginjo/sake).      Also -and to reiterate (in terms of tourism and tourist attractions) it definitely lacks that 'wow' factors in sightseeing.  Historicalattractions, monuments and structures are far less than other Asian tourism spots.      I must repeat however that Tokyo -all in its own way, makes it up with beautiful harmony and beauty of the 'modernism' and its 'old' history.